Design your own cabled scarf. Yes, you can!

I’m more than halfway through knitting a very simple cabled scarf for one of the progeny.

Simple Cable Scarf in progress
Simple Cable Scarf in progress

It’s so simple, you could design your own variation, even if you’ve only ever followed patterns before.

“How?”, you may ask?  Well, follow along these simple steps!

Step 1:   Choose your yarn.  Wool, or some sort of wool blend is nice, because it keeps it’s shape very well, but any yarn will do. Any weight you like, 4ply, 8ply, 10ply, whatever.

Step 2:   Inspect the label from you yarn to find out the recommended needle size and the standard guage/tension.  I’ve chosen Cleckheaton Country Aran, a fairly new aran weight/10ply yarn.  The label informs me that the recommended needle size is 5.00mm (UK 6, US 8), and that the guage/tension is 19 stitches and 25 rows to 10cm.  The stitch guage is more interesting to us than the row guage, for the moment anyway.

Ball Band
Ball Band

Step 3:   Choose a cable pattern.  If you have a good knitting book like “Vogue Knitting – The Ultimate Knitting Book” you will find a Stitch Dictionary included which has a cable section.  You can use a cable pattern from a pattern book or magazine in your collection. Lion Brand yarn have a good online stitch dictionary, including cables.  Borrow a stitch dictionary from your local library.  Ours has Knitting Handbook by Viv Foster, The Knitting Book by Frederica Patmore and The Encyclopedia of Knitting by Lesley Standfield.  Your library will probably have a couple.

The pattern you choose should describe the number of stitches as multiple of x stitches plus y stitches.  The simple cable I’m using is a multiple of 9 stitches plus 3 stitches.  The cable is 6 stitches with 3 stitches between each cable, which adds up to 9 stitches.  The plus 3 stitches is so that you have the same 3 stitches (or however many “plus” stitches yours specifies) at the start and end of each row to balance things up.

My chosen cable stitch pattern
My chosen cable stitch pattern

Step 4:   Knit a tension/gauge square.  It won’t take long, I promise!!!  To knit your square, use needles one size up from the ball band recommendation.  It’s nice to have a bit of give and flexibility in your scarf; it doesn’t need a firm fabric like a pullover would.  So in my case the needles size will be 5.5mm (US 5, UK 9).

If you wanted a 10cm wide square you could use the ball band stitches x 1. Aiming to have a square of about 15cm (6 in) we’ll need about 1.5 times the number of stitches specified on the ball band.  1.5 x 19 in my case is 28.5 stitches.  Well, I’m not going to have half a stitch.  I need this number to cater for my multiple of 9 sts plus 3 sts as well.

If I take the 3 sts from my 28.5 sts I get 25.5 stitches.  Does 9 go into this? No.  We’ll round up to something divisible by 9.  27 stitches will do the trick, plus my extra 3 stitches gives me 30 stitches.  Even though I’ve gone up a needle size and rounded up for my stitch number, the cables will pull everything in, so I’ll add one more multiple of 9 to give me 39 sts, that’s four cables wide plus 3 extra stitches.

So cast on your 39 (or whatever number you’ve come up with), and start knitting using your chosen cable stitch pattern.  I played around with mine.  After a few rows, I started doing p1, k1, p1 between each cable because I thought I might like the look of it.  I didn’t. So, after about 6 rows of this, I went back to the pattern as written.  My cable pattern actually specifies to do a cable every 4th row, but that’s a more compact look than I wanted, so I did them every 6th row.  Continue until you’ve got roughly a square. Cast/bind off.

Tension Square/Gauge Swatch
Tension Square/Gauge Swatch

Yay, you’ve got a tension/gauge square!  Go you!  Now, hopefully you’ve got some sensitive digital kitchen scales.  Weigh you’re square to find out how much yarn you used.  Write it down.

Step 5:   Soak your square in water, remove it from the water, squeeze out any excess water, roll it in a towel and press out more water.  Now lay your square on a fresh, dry towel, stretching it out a bit.  It’ll spring back a bit, but don’t pin it; you’re scarf’s going to squish up when you wear it anyway.  Allow it to dry overnight.

Step 6:   Inspect your square, ruler in hand.  How wide is it? How tall is it?  Is this a good width for a scarf?  If you added or subtracted a cable would that make it the width that you want?  From this information calculate how many stitches you’ll need to cast on for your actual scarf.

Step 7:   How much yarn are you going to need?  If your square is 15cm x 15cm it is 225 square cm.  (Thank you calculator!).  If you want your scarf to be 140cm x 20cm that will be 2800 square cm.  If I divide 2800 by 225, I find out that my scarf is the equivalent of 12.44 tension/guage squares.  My square weighed 17g.  If I multiply 17g x 12.44 squares, I get 211.5 grams required for my scarf.  Each ball is 50g, so I need 5 balls, and there’ll be plenty left over.

Step 8:  Obtain your yarn, cast on your calculated number of stitches and start knitting!  Cast off when you’ve reached your desired length.

Let me know how you go, and I’d love to see some results!  Good luck and happy designing. 🙂

Hat Finished

I’ve finished my sample for the hat pattern, and I’m really pleased with it. The colour, which I wasn’t sure about, looks lovely knitted up. The stitch pattern looks good. The decreases for the crown seem OK to me.

I have a request for test knitters open on Ravelry’s Free Pattern Testers Group. I’ve had two takers so far, and am hoping for a few more. I’m really excited to see how people go knitting from my instructions, and to see other people’s version of the hat.

First Ever Hat Design Under Way

This strange looking creature is the beginning of a hat, which I’m having a go at designing.
I’m using some basic instructions from Debbie Abrahams’ “Design your own knits”.

This book is very good, but it will say something like “calculate the number of rounds you need to knit for the depth of the hat”, but doesn’t actually say how to calculate this.
Yes, if you know the distance and the guage, you can calculate it, but not if you don’t know the recommended distance.
This sort of thing happens again and again in this book. “Calculate the number of stitches for the width of the back neck and the shoulders”, but the body measurements for these distances are not mentioned. Is it from shoulder point to shoulder point? I’m battling on, but it does seem a bit like it’s written for those who already know how to do it.
I suppose it’s not “Design your own knits for dummies”.

I pored over the page on hat design over and over again looking for information about the recommended amount of negative ease. I gave up looking and guessed, and then when following the steps, one by one, there it was, in black and white, right in front of my eyes.
5cm (2 in). Sadly, this sort of thing seems to be a common occurrence for me lately.

I’m having a look at the Vogue Knitting “The Ultimate Knitting Book”, with a view to perhaps using it for vests, pullovers etc.
I do tend to skim over pages looking for key information, rather than methodically reading through each part. I must learn patience in this area.

Since taking this photo, I’ve actually finished knitting the hat, but haven’t yet taken another photo. I don’t know if I want it photographed on my ugly head though. I may have to recruit one of my daughters.

It uses the tulip stitch pattern for the bottom of the hat, and reverse stocking stitch for the top.

I’m really pleased with it, for a first attempt. I plotted out the curve of the decreases on graph paper, but it does seem a bit like a star at the top, though not when it’s on my head.

I can’t find standard measurements for crown of head to forehead or base of skull. Circumference is easy enough to find. All of this is fine when designing for oneself, but if designing for others, what are these measurements for baby, child, woman, man?
The list of questions is endless. Persistence is the key.